Catless h pipe

Catless h pipe DEFAULT

Crossover Pipe - H-Pipe

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Sours: https://kooksheaders.com/exhaust/crossover-pipe/h-pipe

Exhaust X & H Pipes


A. All of BBK's pipes have the same hookups as the stock exhaust pipes, so that you may simply bolt-up and go - however remember Off Road Pipes of any kind are strickly for Off Road Race Use Only and are Illegal on any highway 
A. Yes it does! The X configuration greatly increases scavenging in the exhaust system. Instead of pressure being equalized by a smaller, more restrictive straight piece of pipe, the sides come together in a much more effective design. The X section is larger, and the pipes angle directly into it, meaning the airflow does not have to try and jump from one side to the other to equalize pressure; it is a much smoother transition, leading to better flow numbers than its H-pipe brethren.  
A. No, that should not be necessary. Both pipes leave BBK ready to bolt in place of the stock exhaust pipes, meaning that they should be interchangeable.  A. The standard-length X-pipes have more than enough clearance to accommodate the standard automatic transmission. 
A. More than likely there is nothing loose in your exhaust system. Off-road X-pipes have nothing that could really ever come loose inside. Also more than likely is that you are running a Flowmaster cat-back system. You see, Flowmasters make their famous exhaust note using the science of resonation, where sound waves are bounced back-and-forth, and then recombined with other sound waves to change the sound tone, pitch, and volume. We have noticed over the years that Flowmaster muffler systems when teamed up with our off road X-pipes, can work together to create an exhaust note that not every enthusiast will appreciate. However, there is nothing wrong with either system. Rather, when both are used together you might experience this phenomenon. BBK recommends a muffler system that is a direct-flow type, similar to a Magnaflow or perhaps a Dynomax, should the Flowmaster system not work for you. 
A. BBK recommends that when installing exhaust pipes, you loosely install all the connections first. Then, you will have a little bit of play to "put" the pipe where it fits best, then tighten down the corners equally. You do not want to start at one corner and tighten down fully. This could possibly pull the pipes too tight to one direction, causing fitment problems at other connection ends. 
A. With the exception of the primary runners, all of BBK's exhaust piping is 2 ½ inches. So all of our collectors as well as our H and X-pipes are listed as 2 ½ inches in diameter. 
A. This is a question that comes up quite often after installing our high flow X pipes with the steel substrate converters.

These converters are used because they are the best “High Flow” converters available for performance applications and also for the fact they are bullet proof – in fact we have never seen a set go bad and never warrantied any over 10 years.

The reason that you are getting codes or check engine lights is because the computer in the car is getting an irregular signal from the O2 sensors

Even If the code says they need replacing it is simply that the actual convertors are high flow.

This is fixable with a tune unless you ran over something and damaged them.

 
A. Yes. The BBK Full-Length Mid-Pipes are designed as a direct bolt-on replacement to the factory H-pipe, so you CAN retain your factory manifolds and mufflers. This can be an important thing for many enthusiasts with new cars under warranty, as some dealerships will not warranty a new vehicle if the factory manifolds have been removed. Since BBK's pipes will allow you to keep them in place, you can get greater horsepower while possibly still staying in bounds of your warranty guidelines. And of course, we remind you that it is your responsibility to follow the manufacturers warranty guidelines! 
A. The BBK exhaust pieces are designed around a factory head. In this way, we can ensure that it will fit a factory L, or any L with parts that also match factory spec. However, some after market heads DO NOT meet the specs of the factory heads. If the deck height is larger than stock, then it will push the collectors more toward the center, and cause misalignment with the H-pipe or X-pipe. A similar misalignment will occur if you are using a hi-port head, as it will bring the top of the header further up the slope of the head, changing the location of the collector relative to the rest of the car. The problem can seem even more severe when used with Long Tube header systems, as any angle change becomes more noticeable the further away the from the area of rotation. Basically, a small-degree rotation may affect the alignment of a short pipe by less than an inch, but since the collectors on the long tubes are much further removed from the source of the angle change, the difference could be as much as a few inches. 
A.Check engine lights will occur on some vehicles with long tube headers and high flow or off road mid pipes due to the fact that the factory computer is measuring the temps for the converter and O2 sensor constantly. When a converter or O2 Sensor is re-located further back as it is with long tube exhaust headers a check engine light appears because it takes the new converter longer to heat up. It is Not a physical issue with the headers or cats or O2 sensors (codes people are getting) and not a physical drive ability problem. It can be eliminated with a vehicle tune.  A. The most important factor for leak-free header gaskets is the way that the header gasket is installed.

It is very important to follow the installation instructions when installing the gaskets.

 The steps to follow are:

 Install headers and gaskets and tighten bolts tight to correct torque

Run engine and allow the headers to get hot.

Shut the engine down.

While the headers are still hot tighten the header bolts again to correct torque.

Operate the vehicle for to miles.

While the headers are still hot tighten the bolts one more time to correct torque

 If this procedure is followed, the header bolts should remain tight and the gaskets should last for many years.

Checking the bolts once a while is also good idea - just make sure that everything remains tight and you don’t blow a header gasket.

Sours: https://www.bbkperformance.com/tech-exhaust
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  1. ,  AM#1

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    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
    15 F FTX Tuscany, 16 F Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

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    Default

    Yeah, down the line it will be even more impossible to try and keep the heat riser as parts get even more scarce. Might as well do the upgrade to some headers you like so you can get cheap exhaust for the rest of the cars life.
    G.T CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock intake, MSD Dist., MSD coil
    Comp cams XEH, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S /55r16 on LMR TRX r wheels (street)
    Federal rs-rr /40r17 and /40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  11. ,  AM#11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford View Post
    If you leave the valve intact on the driver side of the 85 header I believe you can bolt up a 86 and later pipe. I think it will hang a little low because of the extended length of the driver side header with the valve. I may be wrong on this. But I have an 85 with its original factory headers and the valve still installed and it has an h pipe on it. Looks to be just a generic 86 and later cheap h-Pipe. Maybe my h-pipe has been modified but it doesnt look to be. Not saying this is the way to go. I am going to switch to 86 and later headers.
    The actual flanges on the '85 headers are in the same place as the '86 and later. The '85 flange is just flat,
    rather than a ball flange. So the length difference is equal to the thickness of the heat riser valve.

    Using two separate pipes, the driver side would indeed hang lower, and the muffler end would be a bit longer
    as well. But using an H or X pipe, the lengh difference wants to skew the whole assembly toward the passenger
    side.

    This can be easily overcome by sectioning the driver side pipe just behind the flange, to compensate for the
    thickness of the heat riser. Or a muffler shop may be able to just cut the flange off, and re-flare the end of
    the pipe.

    My '85 hatch has JBA shorties, so when I installed the '86+ Magnaflow 4-cat X pipe, all I did was swap the
    driver side to a later version, and added the stub for the hot air tube. The JBAs have an E.O. number, so the
    smog police have never questioned any of it.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, , 62K original miles '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles
    F S-Crew 4x4 "Blue Coyote" 65 coupe, auto, Pony interior '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 4-speed '71 Datsun
    And a 1-of Deep Blue Pearl Marauder DOHC, J-Mod, s and Lidio tune

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    On my 85, I converted to a set of shorty headers and the 86 and up transmission crossmember, and exhaust hanger to put the 86 and up H pipe and duals.

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    For those who may be interested, I have two very nice sets of 85 style factory Ford tube headers that I bought years ago for an 85 I had at the time but never used. Each set is a little different with different Ford numbers stamped on them. Possibly automatic and stick although I thought the automatics (CFI AOD) never had tube headers. I can post pictures and numbers if anyone is interested.

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    Default

    One other thing to note is that 85 headers also have the tubes welded on for the hot air tubes to the air cleaner along with the flat exit flange on the right (pass) side to accommodate the heat riser valve.

  17. ,  PM#17
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    My mistake. Looks like the heat riser is on the left (driver) side.

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Challenger RT X pipe vs. H pipe

Every now and then his breath was thrown off when Zhenya impulsively squeezed him in his arms. Saliva flowed from mouth to mouth in both, lips inadvertently bitten in passion swelled; both were hot and sweaty. - I think I'm the first with you, purred Sasha, emerging to the top of bliss.

Pipe catless h

Well, I see) The girl came in a skirt and a blouse. Black short tight-fitting skirt and white blouse with open arms. - Come into the room for now. Would you like to drink something. Juice, maybe a cola.

X Pipe Vs H Pipe Mustang 2018-2019

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Now discussing:

I shouted: Bring me back !. I am a boy. Man. What have you done to me. - Not that ", but whom.



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